Havli - A Central Asia Substack

Havli - A Central Asia Substack

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Havli - A Central Asia Substack
Havli - A Central Asia Substack
Kenesary Khan rides again, as does Kazakh-Kyrgyz row

Kenesary Khan rides again, as does Kazakh-Kyrgyz row

An apology, a criminal charge, and a presidential intervention: the strange afterlife of Kazakhstan’s last khan.

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Peter Leonard
May 27, 2025
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Havli - A Central Asia Substack
Havli - A Central Asia Substack
Kenesary Khan rides again, as does Kazakh-Kyrgyz row
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Kenesary Khan statue in Astana.

Following a few months in the restorer’s studio, the imposing bronze figure of Kenesary Khan, Kazakhstan’s 19th-century national hero, has returned to his familiar perch on the banks of the Esil River in Astana.

But even in his absence, the batyr has been stirring controversy.

Understanding why requires a brief dive into his…

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